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Italy, Summer Tour, July 2006
By Joe Rapolla
In the summer of 2006, I was asked to open-up for my friend, independent performing artist Joe D'Urso, on a 2 week Italian tour. The tour took us up and down and across the middle part of the country, performing 12 shows, in 12 cities, in 12 days. We had the luxury of being backed by three different Italian bands - The Backstreets on the Mediterranean side, and Miami and the Groovers and Acid Queen on the Adriatic coast. The following are the notes from my journal...
Tuesday, 11 July 2006
Upon landing in Roma, I was met at the airport by Joe D and Roberta Valenti, The Backstreets manager - a very nice and accommodating, classic R&R chic, who does a wonderful job at local promotion for this, and a few other bands. She shared with me how frustrating it was to find professional people to work with in Italia - I told her that was the same everywhere.
The first night, we were staying at The Backstreets' guitar player's home (Domiano), who was working until 5, so we had a little time to kill - so we found a little café for a relaxing cup of caffe (espresso). The Italians will belly up to a coffee shop counter/bar for a quick pick me up at least 1 or 2 times a day - nice change for me from a styrofoam cup of hot water from Dunkin Donuts.
We then drove to his apt/condo in Rome where we were met by Bruce, the dog, and Domiano's mother, who until I was told otherwise, thought was his girlfriend - Mamma Mia!
We had a time for a nap - or so we thought. Twenty minutes later into our rest, Roberta got a call from the Road Mgr. of Deep Purple, who were playing that night in Latina and needed an open-up act.
Joe had worked with them in 1996 so was recruited to do an acoustic set before this legendary hard rock band. Joe slept for most of the 70 kilometer ride from Rome to Latina - it didn't seem that long because Domiano drives like Mario Andretti - we got there with 10 minutes to spare. I was still in a complete whirlwind, Joe hit the stage and from the first strum performed like in front of a hometown crowd, well rested, and prepared. I am not easily impressed... I was.
When we arrived we were met by, then unknown to me, Backstreets bassist, Andrea, at the street leading to the back of what was an old professional football (soccer) stadium. Andrea Montecalvo, who could double as Andrea Bocelli, was as cool as he was kind - guided us in by running alongside the car to the backstage parking area. Apparently the Montecalvo boys have a good rep and pretty well connected in the Mouslini-built town of Latina. I also met most of the other Backstreet band members that night; Backstreets front man, Tony (Andrea's brother) and who used to play professional football in the stadium, Carlo, the drummer and his girlfriend Ilaria (sizzle) and Patrizia (friend of the band; charming & eloquent, spoke excellent English from her few years in London and acted as translator during the week as needed) - although we did pretty good between everyone's broken English and our, pathetic Italian (mine consisted of 3 weeks of studying with Ada Merlini in Jersey - who did what she could with me in that time-frame, and an English-to-Italian travel book. Joe D had a much simpler approach - he just put the letter "O" on the end of most words).
Everyone has such warm and hospitable personalities. I feel very comfortable and I can't wait to spend the week staying and performing with these people!
After his set, Joe and I strolled through Latina for a bite to eat and had a few Peroni's. This show was apparently an event because it looked as if most of the good looking people of town were out - if not attending the show, strolling through town having a gelato or caffe; teenagers hanging out, families - as in any shore suburb...well, kind of.
We drove back to Roma. I slept (finally) for part of the ride. I fell instantly asleep on a futon on the floor at Domiano's.
Wednesday, 12 July 2006
We had to get up early (and I thought the rock star life was glamorous) and drive to Cisterna; just outside of Latina (where The Backstreets are based) for Joe D to do a radio interview - little 5000 watt station. Roberta translated as the DJ asked questions and played a few cuts from Joe's new record, "Cause". Unexpectedly they asked me to the microphone to join the interview and they played "I'm Getting Closer" from my CD "Listen To This". Pretty cool - didn't expect that.
Tony joined the interview as well.
After that we went back to Tony's where we met his lovely wife, Guiliana, and bat/vampire loving son, Lorenzo- for a mid day meal, complete with fresh antipasti meats, pasta, fruit, and of course wine and caffe. Tony had to go to work for a few hours. (Neither his wife or son spoke any English but we spoke the international language of good food). Afterwards we rested for a while. Joe D sleeps - essentially if he's not eating, driving or playing... he's sleeping.
Now tonight is our first scheduled show, and my first in Italy in the ancient mountaintop village of Sermoneta.
Fabio, a local photographer was kind enough to show us (me, Joe, Roberta, and Ilaria) around while things were getting set up. Joe tried to steal that kid's football...
In the castle you can study with some of the best musical instructors in the world (by invitation only). Most rooms in the castle have little more than an instrument, light and chair - no distractions!
One of my favorite shots of the 2 Joe's (Joe Squared if you will - which we were later referred to as... ) which Fabio took with my borrowed camera (thanks Murph).
Funny, I had Fabio's wife (who I thought was his assistant) take a few shots but Fabio kept yelling at her that she was doing it wrong - some things are the same all over?
Just a little meal before the show for the entire band and entourage - "pour me some vino Carlo... "
I performed solo that night. It was my first show in Italy. I can't really say that I was nervous - being the open-up act and having no idea what to expect (or no expectations) took a lot of pressure off. It was a hot summer night and I just let it rip. I remember being so in-the-moment during many moments of the performance that the songs were just channeling through me - no thought involved. I remember moving my eyes from the audience to the stars and hearing nothing but the sound of my guitar and voice echoing through the streets of this millennium and a half old mountaintop village. I made sure to recognize the magic of the moment - and thank God for it!
Here with Tony Montecalvo, lead singer of The Backstreets, singing background during Joe D's set. Not too close to the mic. It didn't really matter how well you could be heard, but that you were singing atop an ancient village with some really cool Italian musicians that you just met... and some of the crowd enjoying the music. After my performance, I was signaled to sit down at a table of an established gentleman and his wife and their friends. I took the invitation - always want to show respect...
After the show, Andrea surprised us with a little Italian cheese cake with an eatable reproduction of the tour's backstage pass; accompanied by a little glass of creamy lemonciallo - delish!
Off to sleep in Andrea's spare room.
Thursday, 13 July 2006
We had to get up at 5:30am to drive to the ferry in Terracine to get to the Isle of Ponza (ah, the life of a rock star)... and this is what I was subject to on the ferry first thing that morning... and most of the week (from left: The Backstreets Andrea/Bass, Domiano/Guitar, and Carlo/Drums being themselves).
I'll save you from the rest of the 2 dozen similar shots.
OK, maybe just one more...
Ponza, ah Ponza - picturesque island about 30 kilometers off the west coast - splitting the difference between Roma and Napoli. Picture Portifino meets a hilly Bermuda.
The real reason this gig was booked - as if you need a reason to go to Ponza - is that Joe D has some family history here. His Grandfather (nono) had a house on the island and his Great-Grandmother (nona) is a bit of a celebrity; as she never left the island and lived high (very high) atop the mountain and walked up and down into town regularly and as needed. She lived to 101.
After a fairly uneventful ferry ride (remember it was very early in the AM), we arrive at Ponza at around 11 am and were met by Mario, the club/restaurant/B&B owner in his van. Mario resembled that local guide-like character; you know, like in an Indiana Jones movie or some Southeast Asian setting - that teetered on looking like he was up to something. He wings us half way up the mountain to his compound (disco, mountainside restaurant, and a few simple guest rooms - Joe & I got the presidential suite (essentially IN Mario's home).
We decide to set right up and get a sound-check so we can chill on the beach the rest of the afternoon. As Joe and I are come out of our rooms, we pass Mario's wife and son's (20 & 10) having THEIR mid-day meal - you know, fresh Italian meats, cheeses, very fresh fish, fruit, wine & water.
Of course we had to accept the invitation...
Afterwards, Mario (by van) and son (by motorbike) escorted us down the mountain so we could take his buddy's shuttle (boat) to the beach. Otherwise you have to walk along the mountain to get around the bluff.
Beautiful little rock beach under a cliff side in the bay of this Mediterranean island. Tranquil and tranquil gets. We go for a dip (a float really) and chill like old people as the lake-like ripple of the tide barely reminds us that we're in the middle of the sea. A little of that - now time for a nap on a beach chair.
Around 5 pm we got up to venture off in search of nona's house. Little did we know what we were in for...
An amateur hike this was not. But there isn't any other way up since there isn't a road there. After a few wrong turns, we recruited the daughter of a local restaurateur - whose place we stumbled across half way up - to guide us.
After about 1500 feet up of so... in flip flops, we come to this house carved right into the mountain. On the back/front porch (there's only one side to the house since the other is the wall of the mountain), are a man and a woman. The woman is nursing a baby - Joe spontaneously turns to me and says "twilight zone episode, that woman is breastfeeding my grandfather" - freaking classic! We humbly walk up to them with our trademark jersey "Jon Bon Jono". And then try to explain why we showed up out of the hills.
Before we suffered to long, the man says hello in English and introduces himself as Will, from Philly - now 10 year resident of Rome, where he is an art professor at the American University of Rome. Turns out that the new owner - who bought it from Joe's family - lends the house to Will and his wife when they're not using it.
After he puts on some pants, he is happy to take us through the house, give us beer, and even take pictures for us since our camera is out of space.
There is no wood frame to this house. Literally just rooms carved out of (or into) the mountainside - running water via a cistern system (see your encyclopedia). There's a toilet thank goodness, but you have to stand in a plastic tub to take a shower because there isn't a shower drain. Nice kitchen and bedrooms though... overall pretty cool spot - just don't run out of milk or beer for that matter cause it's a long way down and back.
Alright going down was a lot easier - keep your jokes to yourself. The Backstreets are the last ˝ dozen people left on the beach, since there waiting for us to catch the last shuttle back; or we'd have had to swim to the port.
Back to Mario's, rest/clean up (Joe Sleeps) before a dinner at a restaurant people come across the globe to experience. Then a little Rock & Roll at the disco that night. Not quite the enthusiasm of the night before since this younger crowd was looking to disco and "hook-up". But overall went well enough, nobody left - Mario was happy and brought us over some champagne and an enormous fruit platter.
All-in-all, pretty good day on an Italian island in the middle of the Mediterranean.
Friday, 14 July 2006
Next day we load up and board the ferry back to mainland. Pretty chill cruise; girls chit chat and some of us take a little nap on the ferry benches. I open my eyes to see Andrea, Carlo and Domiano all with devilish looks in their eyes.
Instinctively I do a body check to make sure nothing's stuck to me. Then I get the hi-sign from Andrea to look down the boat where I see that they've swiped one of Roberta's sandals and tided it to some apparatus.
Then Andrea gives me the signal that there's still another one and that I should "participate" in the prank. Always up for a little harmless fun and certainly not wanting to blow my initiation into the Italian "fraternity" (fratello = brother), I slid the remaining sandals from under the seat, while Roberta continues to talk, and quickly identify a hiding spot.
That's it there dangling from the side of the ferry - I made sure I tide it tight. When we docked and Roberta figured out that she had be the victim of "another" Backstreet prank, I played good guy and helped her locate her footwear... everybody's happy!
Mid day meal at Andrea's - you get the drill by now - prepared by Andrea's lovely wife, Antonella (on right).
Then we congregate for the show in Frosinone that night.
On the way Joe runs over a curve and blows out a tire and part of the wheel frame. He wasn't comfortable with "me" driving...
Let me tell you, the Montecalvo boys jumped into action like they were on a Formula 1 pit crew. They had that tired changed faster than Domiano could figure out how to set up the street traffic reflector.
Pretty warm in mid July in the central southern regions of Italy. Setting up at the Cantina Mediterraneo, Domiano takes a break to help himself to a refreshment.
I told Domiano he looked like a gay bartender - not that there's anything wrong with that!
The Cantina Medierraneo - on the outskirts of the Frosinone airport. People congregate outside the small 2 car garage size club - essentially on the driveway on the industrial way-like street. Good show - everyone rocked!
Joe & I drive the 50 miles back to Latina listening to Leonard Cohen - then meet up with the gang at some late night post club bakery hotspot for a cup of caffe and cream-filled croissants... delish!
Saturday, 16 July 2006
Andrea takes our rent-a-car for repair. Of course this didn't take much time or money because the Montecalvo boys are local heros and hooked-up!
We spend most of the Saturday afternoon at Tony's for food, drink, rest, and about 2 hours trading songs on Tony's veranda with guitars.
At some point we head to Sezze for an evening show in the center of town, Piazza. Joe and I drive the relatively short drive from Latina (approx 20 kilometers or 14 miles) to the top of this "other" 1st century mountaintop village. We are treated to rooms in a very nice/quaint hotel. There is a wedding going on in the back courtyard; I sneak a look to see friends and family all having a good time; while some Italian men sit together and discuss... who knows. It was all very nice.
However, I was somewhat distressed by just hearing from my wife that a family member at home, let's just say... let us down. It was somewhat disheartening especially while overlooking this wonderful family event going on under my room and after spending this last week with people who I had just met and who were more than happy to open their homes.
That night in the town, we rocked. This was a bigger production then Sermoneta - stage, lights, lots more people. It seemed like the entire town was sitting semi-circled around the stage and no one was inattentive. I also met new friends of the band that night; some who joined us on sing along numbers.
Another wonderful show, although I played with a heavy heart, as I struggled with being let down at a time when I needed help the most, but enough of that.
I was again backed by, by now my good friends and on the way of becoming family, The Backstreets during a half acoustic half full band set. And Joe D, who is always so gracious to include his touring partners and other special guest on his stage, makes sure to get everyone involved. The local audience, of course... loved it!
Sezze photos, and so many more, courtesy of the very talented and internationally famous FABIO PIRAZZI.
And then at 1 AM, about 25 of us went for dinner at a restaurant on the fringe of the Sezze mountaintop - with plenty of glass to enjoy the evening view of the valley. This restaurant was not short on style. It even had an indoor bocci court where me and Andrea proceeded to take Antonella and Domiano to school.
Oh, and dinner for the 25 of us; thrown in as gratitude for entertaining the few hundred townsfolk that come out and listened intently as we performed... prego!
Sunday, 17 July 2006
Montecalvo home, Rome, Rock City, Drive to Tita's
The next day, the Montecalvo boys' parents had Joe D and me over for a good ole back yard Italian dinner. This was of course part of the whole visit/tour plan. Andrea had been talking about this all week (like he talked in excitement about everything he had planned or we had in front of us that week... very special).
We had a lovely time at the Tony & Andrea's parents. Typical fair - right down to the espresso. Speaking of espresso, when I commented on how this was the most delicious espresso I had all week (of the 50 or so cups I had so far), Mrs. Montecalvo proceeded to disappear into the house only to appear a few minutes later drying her personal espresso pot and placing it into a plastic bag; handed to me, as she had Andrea translate how only a broken in "caffe pot" could make truly good caffe (coffee) and that this was for my wife. Also had a chance to hear a little about the very accomplished life Andrea and Tony had growing up in Latina; from tennis star to professional soccer team member to artists and always good boys, the Montecalvo's had earned sincere respect of their community and peers. I left the Motecalvo's with a cemented admiration for my new friends/becoming brothers.
During dinner however, I had put my foot down, enough of all this, real life with the locals' culture/bonding/experiencing things that only few American every experience... I needed to see something "truly" indigenous to this region of Italy... like a 2000 year old structure that bus load after bus load of tourist come to Italy to see every day.
So I was appeased and off we went to Roma. And talk about power touring. I think we got through everything you needed to see in Rome in a bout 45 minutes. Picture Chevy Chase in National Lampoon's Vacation. Joe's didn't even bother getting out of the car. 'Nough of this; we got some rock n rolling to do (quite honestly, if was all I needed at the time - I had some "real" Italy to get back to)!
Me with my Italian brothers, Tony and Andrea
And that's just that Coliseum building in the background anyway - no chariots circling... just Fiats.
Plenty to wish, and be thankful, for; tradition at the Trevi Fountain
Sunday Night:
That night, we had a show at Rock City - an open air (outside) venue. So we go from ancient mountaintop village to rock club in Rome - quite the contrast.
By now, I was getting quite use to comfortable having The Backstreets support me onstage.
Thanks to Pino Stupinni for the great shots at Rock City!
Sunday night after the show was tough, as we all new it was going to be. Because the fast bond that The Backstreets (and their entourage) and I had made in the past week was deep - and tonight I would be leaving them, with no "confirmed" return plans (although we certainly made it a point to agree to see each other again ASAP), to trek eastward across Italy on our way to the Adriatic for shows up and down that coast, and inland as well. There we would meet up with some new folks (promoters, bands, and entourages). The Backstreets/Montecalvo's and posse would be a tough act to follow...
Late Sunday night (really Monday morning): Following an emotional goodbye, we left Rome, right from the club, and headed east. Instead of attempting to drive "all" the way across the country, we were invited to stay at "the summer home" of a friend and fan of Joe D's in Lubriano - if you drew a line between Rome and Florence, Lubriano would be right in the middle. Not your ordinary summer house either. This one has 80 rooms and is called Palazzo Monaldeschi (Monaldeschi Palace).
The palace belongs to the family of Tita. I met Tita and her husband Antonio at Sezze a few nights before - beautiful, eloquent, and charming people. Antonio, an excellent musician and songwriter himself - and who had jumped on stage during a few numbers in Sezze, was kind enough to meet us at the exit of the Autostrada at 3 AM and lead us up to the Palace, where we made our way straight to our room... and crashed.
OK, I guess I would be remiss in leaving out the fact that there was a wedding at the palace that weekend and the rooms were still all occupied. The only room available had only one, thankfully double, bed; and nothing else but tile floor. So guess who I was sleeping with that night... the one and only, Joe D'Urso!
Nice guy, that Joe, but not my ideal, first-night-in-a-palace bedfellow. But I closed my eyes and fell "fast" asleep.
Next day, Tita and Antonio took us on a wonderful tour of the Palace; where many eloquent events had been hosted. Tita's father worked for the Italian government and many local, and international dignitaries had attended events at the palace.
In the Library, Tita describes to us a picture of her and her father taken with The Pope. Bruce Springsteen also had been a guest at Palazzo Monaldeschi.
Monday, 18 July 2006
Tita got up at 6 AM to make us homemade peach Gelato that we enjoyed for desert after a wonderful mid day meal with Tita's family. In the upper-right picture, Tita shows us a hidden passage way disguised as a bookshelf.
We left Palazzo Monaldeschi mid afternoon and headed east to the Adriatic. Through fields of Sunflowers and small villages tucked into the mountains, while Joe and I talked music and the philosophy de jour - it was a great ride.
We hit Morrison's, a pub in Cupra Marittimo about 8:30 PM. I was opening up at 9 and used the restroom as my backstage. I met Lorenzo and his band, Miami And The Groovers; who were backing Joe during his set. Great guys and musicians - they joined me at the end of my acoustic set for a loose version of Glory Days. Lorenzo, an excellent singer/songwriter (in English), also promotes a fairly large festival each September dedicated to the music of Bruce Springsteen, called... Glory Days.
That night, Joe and I stayed at a local B&B on the Adriatic called, la Casa Del Pecsi - I think that means The House Of Fish. I had my own bed... it could have been called The House Of Fish Heads for all I cared - come to think of it, it was the first time during this tour that we weren't a guest of someone's... nice!
Tuesday, 19 July 2006
Next day, Joe and I spent a little time on the beach. We waded in the Adriatic; I strolled along the beach a little and read a bit. Joe slept of course.
We got a little lunch and got ourselves ready for the show that night at The Clipper in Grottamare with the third band I would meet, and perform with, on this tour... Acid Queen.
Another wonderful group of people, Acid Queen is a Janis Joplin tribute band; and what shocked the heck out of me was the little demure lead singer. Although polite (of course), she was quite as a mouse. I barely noticed her during dinner. But when Acid Queen hit that stage, this little thing was probably the biggest thing I had seen that week. Just commanded the stage and owned the material - very entertaining.
There was good energy all around that night. At one point, I was standing on the tables, barefoot, at this beach pub on the east coast of Italy over looking the Adriatic Sea, with the entire audience accompanying me in an extended a cappella ending of Bruce's "Spirit In The Night"... Perfect!
Back to House Of Fish for bed.
Wednesday, 20 July 2006
I hit the beach for a little bit, we had lunch with a few of Joe D's fans at Maria's on the beach, hit an Internet Café to check our mail, and then drove to Gagliano Aterno for show outside of Klitsch a Wine Pub tucked in this middle of the country mountain village.
I was still not immune to driving miles up through steep long winding rural roads that open up to quaint old village towns, to be hosted by extremely hospitable locals at, or outside, some surprisingly hip eatery or club to play, but the interesting thing about this show was in the village of Casteldelvecchio within Gagliano Aterno (to locate, draw a line right down the middle of the country, top to bottom and then left to right; the intersection is close to Casteldelvecchio), was out of the woodwork came groups of American students there on a summer study program and British ex-patriots... just not what I had expected in this very remote spot; but made for an interesting night.
Joe and I traded off songs throughout the evening and stayed at a relatively modern B&B across the hill. The thing extra special about that night were the stars. Either they were lower or we were that much higher, but they were so clear the sky took on its natural 3-D characteristic.
Thursday, 20 July 2006
Back down the mountain and back east to the beach tourist town of Rimini to meet Lorenzo at his family's place - a very nice 4 story that he and his new wife, Silva stay of the 4th floor; his parents on the 3rd, rent out some other rooms as well as run their graphic arts business out of.
But first a little lunch in Casteldelvecchio at this very local spot; certainly no tourists here. We get greeted by a woman who, as Joe D put it, looked like she had the map-of-Italy drawn on her face. We're ready to do a bad job ordering, really pointing to the menu. When she asks us what she can get us in perfect English. We ask how she learned such good English - you just wouldn't expect where we were. She, and her twin sister, left Italy with their family during some revolt and lived in Canada as children before moving back to this tiny mountain village. Ya just never know...
Lorenzo booked a gig at this cool little wine bar, Sottomarino Giallo (Yellow Submarine) in Osteria that night. We played in the alleyway outside; which was packed. Wonderful low key evening.
Chillin' before the show at the Yellow Submarine; kinda sums up the mood that evening, although bad shot since Joe's a bad photographer :) |
Friday, 21 July 2006
Since we never made it to Rapolla, Italy (too far south), Joe makes sure I get a shot of my namesake street as we leave Rimini. OK not exactly right, but you guys never spell my name right anyway.
A bit of a Mellon collie moment as we mess around and tune up before our last gig together at club Halloween; overlooking an Adriatic port in Ortona.
Saturday, 22 July 2006
Joe drives me to the airport and I am met by Roberta, The Backstreets manager, who came out of her way to see me off with a few parting gifts; including a bottle of Garlic Hot Pepper Olive Oil (of course) and a few packages of espresso caffe from Mrs Montecalvo, for my new caffe pot.
Thanks Joe D'Urso and all my new friends and family in the homeland. I had an amazing time!
Till next time...
Ciao,
Joe R
Since drafting this journal from the notes of my July 2006 tour, I have returned to Italy 2 more times for similar tours, once with my family. I am returning again to headline a 10-day/10 city tour with my Italian family The Backstreets and Lorenzo Semprini this September 2008.
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